Kebabs, Biryani and a World More: A Historic Indian City Earns a Spot on Unesco Culinary List.
Mouth-watering kebabs, aromatic biryani, and fluffy, ethereal desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has consistently been a haven for gastronomes, with residents and travelers alike swearing by its superb cuisine.
Worldwide Recognition
Last month, UNESCO designated it as a UNESCO Creative City for Gastronomy – including it in a select group of world cities and sparking hopes that it will spotlight Lucknow's sublime food. With this title, it enters a global network of cities metropolises across over 100 countries committed to promoting "artistic expression as a catalyst of sustainable urban development".
The accolade "demonstrates its deep-rooted culinary traditions and lively food ecosystem," as noted by a official from Unesco's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is merely the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to earn a spot in this highly sought-after list of 70 global destinations worldwide.
A City Defined by Food
The accolade for this venerable city comes as hardly a shock to its inhabitants or dedicated food lovers. Many share the sentiment that it is "a recognition that was delayed".
With the UNESCO recognition, this adored, lively, and vibrant city – the capital of India's largest state – is finally in the limelight for what has consistently defined its essence: an immense passion for food.
"'What's for dinner, the method of preparation' is a constant discussion from waking up until going to bed in most homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are often judged by the excellence of food that emerges from your kitchen."
A Heritage of Nawabi Cuisine
The City of Nawabs – as it's often referred to after its 18th and 19th Century opulent Muslim rulers – is renowned for its tender kebabs and a singular take on biryani that were created, refined, and taken to sublime levels in their royal kitchens.
These imperial kitchens were centers of food experimentation, fusing Iranian and indigenous Indian styles to create what became known as the cuisine of Awadh.
It was during this time that Lucknow's iconic kebabs were developed. The story goes that the mutton galouti was devised to feed an elderly nawab who had lost his teeth. His culinary artists processed the meat with papaya, kesar, and a blend of spices and made it so fine that it needed no chewing.
But perhaps the most significant contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a low, leisurely heat, with the container's cover tightly sealed with dough.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
Besides the well-known kebabs and biryani, the cooks also developed a collection of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not just about kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a dream for plant-based eaters.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine not only showcases seasonal produce but also offers the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – spicy fried snacks.
Hidden Gems and Legacy Eateries
Nearly on many street corners, there are little shops and kiosks – little-known gems that are extremely favored by the locals.
In the heart of the city of Hazratganj, throngs of people start assembling from the crack of dawn at a famous tea stall to get a steaming cup of milky masala chai, offered in clay glasses, along with pillowy soft buns lathered with freshly churned white butter.
To start the day, one can head to a unpretentious joint operating in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was established, the place is still much sought-after for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Preserving Tradition for the Future
The city also boasts unique treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a frothy dessert found in the winter. The method of making it is precise and involved. The cook whisks the milk and then exposes it at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its unique airy feel.
On chilly mornings, street vendors can be seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. A number of however express concern that their younger generation are reluctant to learn the craft.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has frequently stated that the city's rich food legacy puts it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will occur only if Lucknow can now generate interest about its lesser-known eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow tells a story – crafted by multi-generational food businesses, from modest street carts to busy restaurants, and guarded family recipes.
The global recognition, it is anticipated, will motivate more people worldwide to discover these narratives and visit the city to delight in the food wonders of Lucknow.