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When curating a list of London’s top eateries, one might anticipate well-known award-winning venues. However, tucked near the top among these culinary heavyweights is a unpretentious salonu situated in a distant corner of north London.

An Surprise Honour

The small Turkish eatery, specialising in the street food of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been named the 4th finest restaurant in the city by a influential gastronomic guide. The honour has left the family totally shocked.

“I’m completely shocked,” says the family member, alluding to his family’s relentless work that culminated in their modest place achieving such a lofty ranking on a respected 99-strong list.

A Charm of Simplicity

This little venue, which was a basic cafe before its transformation into a buzzing spot, has maintained much of its original character. It accommodates just over 20 people and, aside from the vibrant live cooking performance, the layout remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a tiny and intimate spot,” says the owner.

The Signature Dish: Tantuni

Ultimately, it’s all about the fare, and this restaurant certainly delivers. The eatery’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated joy. Choice of meat—either lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to maintain a tender texture.

It is then tossed into a sizeable pan with seasonings and oil, which are incorporated in bit by bit. Once the flavourful mixture bubbles up, homemade lavaş—a soft bread—is laid on top to soak in all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley go inside before the flavourful meat is wrapped tightly inside.

The wrap is often enjoyed with a drizzle of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a powerful slap of taste, with subtle hints of sumac, sharp onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil bringing it all in harmony.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is chopped and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. A leading food critic labelled this dish “one of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

When it comes to sweets, the restaurant’s künefe proves a treat. It is coated in lighter syrup than found elsewhere, imparting it a richer, toastier and less sickly taste.

Surpassing the Giants

Notably, this unassuming spot has ranked above several celebrated three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself close to the peak of the list, trailing other high-profile dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave the restaurant stuffed for below £25, equivalent tasting menus at luxury establishments can run into significantly more than that figure.

A Ethos of Warmth

The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants featured and is located well outside the city’s prime zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an belief that in an expensive place you’re going to have the top service and top food but I do not believe in that,” says the owner.

“I feel what is crucial is warmth, friendliness and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

The sentiment is shared by the list’s compiler, who remarked that if he was in a position of power, he would “require to make every chef in London come to this restaurant as a masterclass, to teach them the pitfalls of overthinking, and to reveal what is possible if you do just one – or three – things to their absolute best”.

A Path of Dedication

Unlike many chefs running kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the mastermind behind the food did not train at elite establishments. “I am truly proud of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.

Many restaurants require years to find their footing, but this eatery first opened its doors seven years ago. Its popularity is due to tireless, seven-day weeks of work.

“Our mum was really tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Everything is prepared manually; she would handle all of this. She is a single mother and she managed a life outside work but her friends would visit to encourage her. She had children and a house to care for as well. All of these roles made her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he reflects.

A Achievement for the Community

The restaurant’s success is set to echo beyond its own premises. “I believe numerous people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” notes the owner, highlighting the greater importance of this gastronomic achievement.